First off, your wiring harness is going to look a lot different than my
wiring harness.
All of then will end w/ a DB37, a connector that looks like an old-
style printer connector. Each wire must be soldered into the DB 37
and should have shrink wrap covering the connector.
The instructions specify stranded wire, follow that spec. Solid wires
will break.
What I’ve done is go to the junkyard and pull harnesses of late model
(1st Gen 97-99)Neons. That way you have the new style coil and crank
sensor. I get another one or two from a ’96 or newer because they have
longer wires than the ’95, and I can keep the extensions wires the same
coloring.
You are going to have to remember what wires are what in 2yrs when
you want to add another option or swap in a buddies unit. Having wires
that match the FSM is a big help.
'93-95 build Neon connectors will work for the GM sensors. The old, OEM
connectors are of a better quality than the ones I ordered new.
http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/mwire.htm#clt
The placement of the unit is also going to be different on every car. I like
the area above the glove box, this allows EZ access to the unit and to
wires, while remaining stock looking. Most of the wiring (Crank sensor,
DOHC temp gauge unit, injectors, coil (flip it around,) etc.) is on the
passenger’s side. People may have qualms about removing the airbag
and putting in a non-AC blower box to pass the wire thru the evap hole.
I welded on an O2 bung on header runner #1 to make routing the O2
sensor EZier.
Other’s have been happy mounting it in place of the ash tray, but when
we had one on the driver’s side, it made wiring pretty busy by the strut
tower.
I bought some shielding from our local surplus shop for the feed wire
off the crank sensor. This should be grounded on one end.
Retain the stock capacitor and place as close to coil as possible.
I took a long time on my harness and shrink-wrapped as much as possible.
I got the area of wire just coming out of the connector on as much as
possible, so the wire won’t bend and break in that area. I think using the
best methods for wiring will pay of in the long run. It certainly doesn’t
work to do everything ‘temporary,’ and this always comes to bite you when
you’re stalled in the rain in the middle of nowhere on the worst possible day.
I don’t have an external regulator alternator, but Doug used an old, rusty
Mopar regulator from my toolbox on his, and the wiring took minutes.
Relays; you can jump the OE relays, have MS turn them on, or add
your own. Note, the purpose of the ASD is defeated (to stop gas from
pumping all over if you crash and can’t turn key off) if you use the key
or jump it.
I pulled power off the airbag box (I figured this would be a good circuit!)
for the MS, and the cigar lighter for the coil and injectors, used my own
relay beneath the airbag cover.
Cheetah Auto supply in Roseville has very inexpensive relay (and a
whole board of helpful DIY wiring stuff) kit.
