http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f22/133986-8-8-ford-lsd-possible-copy.htmlCarltonPowers: This thread will have all the
footnotes of the original thread from turbododge.com and neons.org. Information on the installation of this spring and what you can expect once installed will be included.
Why use Ford parts on a neon?Because it is affordable and and functional. Period. If a Honda intake manifold would bolt up and flowed better than stock, I'd have one. Spare this thread the " I hate fords" comments. Fords has plenty of credentials in the racing scene to back up their stock transmission components.
How does diff mod compare to the Phantom Grip, OBX, and QuaifeIt has been stated the 95 mustang diff spring (part # EOAZ-4214-A) performs above the phantom grip. Cost is $11.99 plus tax. Never used of been in a car with the PG, so no comment there. The car does seem to respond more directly to acceleration and launching. Very little spin from my worn tires dropping it from 2k. May try 2500rpm drop at the track. The OBX requires some work to avoid failure. For $500, it should be done before I get it. Seems to work well afterwards though. The Quaife is $1200. That cost more than I paid for my trans, car, seats, etc.. Do not think I'll need such a part for the driving I do. Also heard it makes normal driving a chore, but have nor experienced it first hand to confirm.
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=267937&highlight=obxhttp://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/posi_shootout.htmlLet's make note of something right now. A LSD is not a free pass to do burn outs without doing any damage to your car. This modification is to increase traction control and limit wheel-spin when launching off the line for better 60ft times. That is about it. This modification cost a whopping $18 including diff tabs from mopar
http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t ... tial+saver
Here is a pic of what the diff looks like when complete. On the left is the F-150 (part#F3TZ-4214-A) spring in a neon diff( first one done to my knowledge), and the left is the 95 mustang spring.
CarltonPowers:
To date, there have been two failures from those that installed them on their own, and two that have them operating correctly. Of all the diff I did (about 4) are installed in the trans are alive and well
Here all part numbers associated and installation information will be listed.
7.5" Ford Differential Spring
(Ford Part# E4DZ-4214-A)-This is the smallest diff spring. It can be purchased separately from the entire ford diff assembly. Cost is about $11.99. To install into a neon diff requires a vice of sorts to force the spring into the neon diff.
No machine work is required for this installation. This spring was used in the ford SVO mustang, and Ford Ranger. Here is my write for the 7.5" diff spring:
Ghost Neon wrote:Finally had time to get this all done. P You will have to hit the retainer pin from the underside of the diff to remove. You'll see when you have yours out. Took a few whacks, so be patient and careful not to hurt yourself.
Ford part# E4DZ-4514-A Cost $22.50. Ordered in the afternoon and arrived same day. That's nice[/Borat]
Diff from my spare trans out of a 97 5speed stratus. Seems any 5speed or atx the was mated to a neon compatible block will work. The diff is the point of concern
Be sure to remove the plastic speedo gear
before removing the dowel pin that holds the diff in place. The diff retainer pin will come in contact with the plastic ring gear if not removed prior. Gently pry it out with a flathead screw driver.
Weapon Of choice. This part all depends on you. Previous comments speak of machining down the spider gears for ease of entry. The upper and lower gears have a bit of a lip there. I saw that as greater holding power under load, so I chose to use some force.
With the table vice being only so long, the diff was inverted. This part was slightly challenging, but is still pretty simple at the same time. Had to hold the diff at an angle to get the S-spring into position. When applying pressure from the table vice, check every few turns to be sure the S-spring is centered. Be sure to allow about an hour to get this done. If the spring is not centerd, it will start to bend when it comes in contact the the spider gear on the side. Use a long sturdy screwdriver, or other prying tool to correct.
This is the finished product.
Cost run down & tools required:
1/8" pin punch - $2.38
12" flat head screw driver
13mm socket
3/8 rachet/breaker bar
claw hammer/mini sledge
table vice
red loc tite
diff saver tabs $5.xx
S-spring =$22.50
[/quote]
8.8" Ford Differential Spring
(Ford Part# EOAZ-4214-A)-This spring the the mid-sized spring. This is the same spring used in the rear differential of the 1989-1995 Supercharged Thunderbird & Mercury Cougar XR7, 1987 Turbo Coupe Thunderbird, and the 1995 mustang GT. All of the following produce 40+ more base horse power, so this part is build to take some power. This installation for the 8.8" spring requires the machining down of the smaller lateral spider gears. The 8.8" spring is taller than the 7.5" spring, and will become wider when compressed into the neon differential. When grinding down the smaller lateral spider gears, take care to keep the surface smooth and even. Check periodically, by installing back in diff, to see if enough material has been removed to clear each side of the 8.8" spring.
F-150 Differential Spring
(Ford Part# F3TZ-4214-A)-This is the largest diff spring found in most Ford trucks. The installation of this spring is similar to the 8.8" spring, though this installation requires the machining of the smaller and larger spider gears. Only one install has been completed, and shipped. Results and performance are unknown at this time. Here is a pic by DJScorpio67 comparing the F-150 spring to the 8.8" spring:
Super8neon also suggested the use of a magnetic drain
(part# M14x1.50).
The phantom grip was known for shaving metal either off the spider gears, or itself into the trans fluid. The magnet would be helpful to prevent damage. Get one regardless. The same size can be used for the oil pan.[/img][/quote]
